OCOTLAN, OAXACA: OUR FAVORITE INDIGENOUS MARKET PUEBLO AND MORE
One of the highlights of visiting Oaxaca is a chance to visit one or more of the weekly markets (mercados) in the outlying pueblos which surround the city of Oaxaca. Our favorite weekly Mercado is located in the town of Ocotlan which is approximately 18 miles south of the city of Oaxaca on Highway 175 and which is easily reached by either second class buses or collectivo taxis from Oaxaca. In addition to the main attraction which is the huge Friday Mercado, Ocotlan has a beautifully restored church and monastery on an attractive main plaza. It’s this combination of wonderful offerings which makes Ocotlan the town we return to again and again.
The highlight of a visit to Ocotlan on Friday is the amazing outdoor Mercado which spreads out from the main plaza for blocks and blocks. Beneath a riot of colorful tarps, massive amounts of merchandise – much of it modern stuff, but also plenty of old-fashioned goodies – cover a multitude of tables and street-laid mats. How about a handmade saddle for your burro or a wooden yoke for your oxen? If not that, perhaps four or five turkeys (live), a goat, or perhaps a dozen bags of locally grown chilies, herbs, fruits, or vegetables. The selection is endless and the colors are brilliant! Also to be found: pottery, baskets, cutlery, leather goods, hats, wood carvings, and beverages such as mezcal. There are plenty of outdoor stands serving hot, just-off-the-grill dishes for your tasting. And of course, the municipal indoor market is filled with permanent food stands where you can sit and be served some local dishes for your enjoyment.
In addition to the Friday mercado, a must visit is the gorgeous Templo de Santo Domingo church. Fortunately, Ocotlan has come upon good times greatly due to Rudolfo Morales, the internationally celebrated but locally born artist, who dedicated his fortune to improving his hometown. The Rudolfo Morales Foundation has continued the work he started before his death. The most visible expression of this work is the Temple de Santo Domingo which has been completely rebuilt, from its bright blue, yellow, and white exterior to the Baroque gold glitter of its nave ceiling. Absolutely and totally beautiful! In the painstakingly restored monastery behind and adjacent to the Temple are exhibits of religious art from the monastery and the church as well as some of Morales’s own work. At one of our visits, there was an amazing exhibit in the monastery of the ceramics by the internationally renowned Aguilar sisters of Ocotlan. See our photo album for pictures of these charming and wonderful ceramic creations. A wonderful and worthwhile place to visit!
The Casa de Cultura Rudolfo Morales, in the yellow-pained mansion at Morelos 108, is three doors north from the plaza’s northwest corner. In the graceful and patrician interior of the Casa de Cultura, Morales family and staff manage the foundation’s affairs, teach art and computer classes, and sponsor community events. On the second floor is a gallery exhibiting collages by Morales. The Casa is open to visitors every Friday. It is a quiet and charming way to end your visit to wonderful Ocotlan.
On the way to Ocotlan, there are three additional villages which hold their weekly mercado on Friday. If you have the time and chance, it would be worth your while to visit one or more of the following pueblos: San Bartolo Coyotepec (famous for its black pottery), Santo Tomas Jalietza (famous for its hand-woven belts and leather goods), and San Antonio Castillo Velasco (famous for its finely hand-embroidered blouses and dresses). HERE’S A GREAT SUGGESTION: If you can manage to be in Oaxaca for two consecutive Fridays then you could visit these villages on one day and leave one whole day for just Ocotlan! Excelente!
Please view our photo album from our visits to Ocotlan. It’s best and easiest to view the photos as a “slideshow.” Please let me know if you have questions. I always enjoy hearing from travelers! Hasta luego! Laura
Hello Laura
ReplyDeleteCongratulations firstly on your excellent blogs with beautiful photos and secondly on being able to live the expat life is such a lovely city as Oaxaca.
You have the kind of detail about the city and Ocotlan that only an expat would have. I wish I could have read your blogs previous to our visit to Oaxaca in January 2009.
In my blogs I am slowly writing my way around Mexico and Oaxaca is only four destinations away. Our visit was brief but nevertheless the impression that the city left was huge. When I will write about our visit, I would definitely like to include a link to your blogs that tap into the detailed knowledge of an expat.
All the best, I will write again as I have a few questions for you.
Lobo