Thursday, April 2, 2009

WELCOME

The challenge of exploring a new area and then deciding to
live there on a permanent basis (or until the feet get the “itch”to move on) is what brings excitement, joy, and unexpected surprises to our life. Becoming a part of the local community is very rewarding whether it is volunteering at the local English language library, teaching English tolocal school children, or participating in local fund-raising events. My interest in ethnic cultures and their arts and crafts have been a very large influence in our choice of lifestyle. My personal nature is that of a helpful, supportive, and sharing “mother” to those who wish to know more about “what, where, and how.” I find sharing my experiences with others very rewarding and in this regard I am very much a “mother” to those I meet who want to learn about my experiences, my insights, and suggestions for living “La Vida Buena” or “The Good Life.” Each of my blog’s will describe different aspects of life indifferent countries and locations including, but not limited to
Mexico, Guatemala, and Argentina. In as much as we are currently living in Oaxaca, Mexico my initial blog will focus on this amazing area of Mexico. I look forward to sharing our experiences through my blog, photographs, and recommended links and I hope to hear from you with your comments or questions. Gracias! Laura



OAXACA CITY FAVORITES


WELCOME TO WONDERFUL OAXACA CITY!!!

Welcome to Oaxaca City! My husband and I are currently living “La Vida Buena” in Oaxaca City which is the capital of the state of Oaxaca. Oaxaca is a vibrant and exciting city which combines beautiful and historical Spanish colonial buildings with traditional residential and commercial areas. This blog is NOT a professional tourist guidebook nor does it contain any hidden agenda. It is simple my personal take on this amazing city and some of my favorite things it has to offer. My focus is on the city’s rich art and cultural offerings, its restaurants, shops, and a few of its special hotels. I make no claim to being comprehensive or neutral. My list is not exhaustive, but it does include the places that I most enjoy. These are my personal recommendations which I would share with my very best friends when they come to visit. I hope they will be valuable to you when you come to Oaxaca and say hello!

Oaxaca is an easy city to navigate. Its historical center is small and almost everything you might want to see is within walking distance. The heart of the city is the shady zocalo which is the main .plaza. It is outlined with sidewalk cafes and the Cathedral which is on the north side. It is a great place to people watch and to have a meal or light refreshment So let’s get started!

THE MUST- SEE HISTORIAL AND CULTURAL ATRACTIONS:

  • The Cathedral (on the zocalo)
  • The Santo Domingo Church and the attached Museum of Oaxacan Cultures (on the Alcala pedestrian walkway)
  • The Basilica de Nuestra Senora de la Soledad (on Calle Independencia)
  • The Rufino Tamayo Museum – Prehispanic Art collection (on Calle Morelos) - A LAURA FAV!
  • The Museum of Oaxacan Painters (Calle Independencia at corner of Garcia Vigil) - A LAURA FAV!
  • The Textile Museum of Oaxaca (Calle Hidalgo at corner of Fiallo) - A LAURA FAV!
  • The Belber Jimenez Museum – private collection (Calle Matamoros)
  • Henestrosa Library and Casa de la Ciudad – Calle Morelos)

I THINK IT’S TIME FOR A BREAK!!! YOU DESERVE A COLD AGUA FRESCO (FRESH FRUIT DRINK), CERVEZA, OR SHAVED ICE. RELAX AND ENJOY!

WHERE TO SHOP UNTIL YOU DROP:

  • Benito Juarez Mercado (very colorful and traditional/my favorite for ambiance!), A LAURA FAV!
  • Abastos Mercado (the “grand-daddy” of them all! It’s huge and a great place to get lost!
  • Mercado de las Artesanias (handicrafts and traditional clothing) Don’t forget to bargain!
  • Outdoor Mercado at Labastida Park – near Santo Domingo Church – great local venue with typical clothing and jewelry.
  • MARO – a cooperative of women artisans with a large selection of arts and crafts. Calle Cinco de Mayo
  • La Mano Magica (on Macedonia Alcala), La Catrina Chimalli (on Garcia Vigil), and Hecmafer Bazar Artesanal (on Cinco de Mayo) – very special shops

ART GALLERIES GALORE!!

Oaxaca has become one of Mexico’s main art centers and there are dozens of art galleries showing and selling art work in all media. Although Oaxaca is especially known for its graphic art - painting, sculpture, ceramics and photography are all well represented. Here are just some of the many fine galleries in Oaxaca. Check them out!

  • Galeria Quetzalli, Constitucion #104-1
  • Galeria 910, 2nd floor of Alcala 305
  • Sonrya Galeria, Alcala 102
  • Arte de Oaxaca, Murguia 105
  • Galeria Indigo, Allende 104 - A LAURA FAV!
  • Galeria Linda Fernandez, Gurrion, between Alcala and 5 de Mayo
  • Galeria La Mano Magica


ARE YOU HUNGRY YET???

Oaxaca is one of the primary cuisine centers of Mexico. The variety of regional dishes is extensive and unique. Oaxaca is internationally known for its moles (sauces of many ingredients) and its chocolate (both of which are great souvenirs to take home). But you haven’t been to Oaxaca until you at least try the chipulines (fried and seasoned grasshoppers!). The variety of restaurants and culinary delights will keep the lucky visitor busy and happy for many, many meals. The following are just a few of my personal favorites:

  • La Biznaga (Calle Garcia Vigil #512) – both comida (“lunch”) and cena (“dinner”) nice covered patio with daily specials of “nueva cocina Mexicana) - A LAURA FAV!
  • Casa Oaxaca – (Calle Constitucion #104) very expensive and reservations recommended!
  • Como Agua pa’Chocolate (Hidalgo #612) second floor around corner of zocalo with extensive menu of creative cuisine
  • Marco Polo (Pino Suarez #808 across from Llano Park) – GREAT SEAFOOD - especially the outdoor oven-baked dishes! Serves comida until 6 PM in garden setting. Go hungry and enjoy! - A LAURA FAV!

  • There are dozens of other wonderful eating venues including the small and usually family-run restaurants that serve “comida corrida”, a simple fixed price lunch of several courses at very reasonable cost. Try them!!!

  • There are dozens of local street stands/stalls preparing wonderful and fresh ready-to go food. A majority of the offerings are prepared with freshly made tortillas which you watch being made. Whenever and wherever you see a group of locals standing and waiting to be served you can bet the food is great, safe, and cheap. My favorite street stand is in on Garcia Vigil across the street from the Juarez House Museum. You have to be patient since everything is made to order and the locals love it! Enjoy!! A LAURA FAV!

ARE YOU READY TO SLEEP???

Oaxaca has an incredible variety of accommodations from deluxe five star hotels to backpacker cheapl. I frequently use tripadviser.com to start a search of possible places to sleep and stay when we are going to a new area. In addition, we have stayed at the following when arriving in Oaxaca before we settle into our rental property. We prefer staying in smaller and moderate priced Bed and Breakfasts and Inns. We enjoy the personal attention of the owners and the opportunity of meeting fellow travelers and guests that you customarily meet in such venues. Here are our favorites:

  • HOTEL LAS MARIPOSAS (Pino Suarez #5l7) next door to OAXACA LENDING LIBRARY (where I volunteer weekly as the “greeter”). The very friendly owner, Teresa Villareal, is very helpful and well-informed. Great gardens and a continental breakfast which is included. www.lasmariposas.com.mx

  • CASA ARNEL (Aldama 404, Colonial Jalatlaco) in the quiet and charming residential area of Jalatlaco (5 minute walk to Parque Llano/Oaxaca Lending Library) is an economical and friendly two-story inn surrounding a jungle-like garden and with a large roof-top terrace. Different types of rooms with appropriate pricing. Good breakfast offered at additional cost. The husband and wife owners are very pleasant and helpful. www.casaarnel.com.mx

  • HOTEL AZUCENAS (Prof. M. Aranda 203 at Matamoros) – a restored colonial home with ten rooms and an incredible roof-top terrace with amazing views. One block from Basilica Soledad and five blocks from zocalo Recommended by my California travel agent- owner friend. www.hotelazucenas.com.


UNTIL WE MEET AGAIN, I HOPE YOU HAVE FOUND THIS INFORMATION USEFUL. MY NEXT BLOG WILL BE MORE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR OTHER ACTIVITIES WHILE VISITING OAXACA. SEE YOU SOON! "MOTHER" LAURA

OAXACA BACKGROUND INFO

OAXACA, MEXICO: A Little Background Information is Good for You!

The Mexican state of Oaxaca is located along the Pacific Ocean in the southeastern section of Mexico. Located where the Eastern Sierra Madre and the Southern Sierra Madre mountains come together, Oaxaca shares a common border with the states of Mexico, Veracruz and Puebla (on the north), Chiapas (on the east), and Guerrero (on the west). As the fifth largest state of Mexico, Oaxaca is characterized by extreme geographic fragmentation. With extensive mountain ranges throughout the state, Oaxaca has an average altitude 5,085 feet above sea level with only a small percentage of arable land.

Oaxaca's rugged topography has played a significant role in giving rise to its amazing cultural diversity. Because individual towns and tribal groups lived in isolation from each other for long periods of time, the subsequent seclusion allowed sixteen ethno-linguistic groups to maintain their individual languages, customs and ancestral traditions intact well into the colonial era and - to some extent - to the present day. For this reason, Oaxaca is the most ethnically complex of Mexico's thirty-one states. Even today, it is believed that at least half of the population of Oaxaca still speaks an indigenousdialect.

The city of Oaxaca de Juárez is a beautiful Spanish colonial city with a modern commercial and tourist center. It is also the capital of the state of Oaxaca and it is located at the junction of three of the smaller valleys that make up the Valley of Oaxaca. The ancestors of the Zapotecs were the earliest human inhabitants of the Valley of Oaxaca.

Zapotec families have turned to craft production for the major part of their income. There has long been a high level of craft specialization among the Zapotec villages of the Oaxaca Valley. Some villages produce crafts for the domestic market, such as the red pottery of San Marcos Tlapazola and the reed baskets of San Juan Guelavía. Other communities are known for their food including the cheeses of the Etla District and the famous mescal beverages of Matatlán. Artisans in many towns produce crafts for the international art market including the wooden figures of Arrazola and Tilcajete, the black pottery of San Bartolo Coyotepec, and the wool rugs of Teotitlán del Valle. The fine tradition of hand woven and hand embroidered textiles and clothing is still practiced extensively in many of the villages of Oaxaca with much pride and with a great variety of designs and styles. The traditional indigenous crafts, arts, and textiles of Oaxaca are unique and wonderful. And they can be collected and appreciated by discerning peoples of all nationalities, ages, and lifestyles. Enjoy!