HELPFUL HINTS FOR HANGING OUT IN OAXACA, MEXICO
Whether a vacationing tourist or a full-time expatriate living “La Vida Buena” as my husband and I do, it can be a challenge arriving in a new city and learning the “In’s and Out’s” of the local scene. For this very reason, I am giving you my “Helpful Hints for Hanging Out in Oaxaca City” so that you can better spend your time exploring and enjoying the city without stressing over the practical and mundane aspects of travel. Although these hints are specific to the city of Oaxaca, many of them can be applied when visiting other cities and areas of not only Mexico, but other Latin American countries. Hope you will find them helpful!
Airport Transportation: TRANSPORTACION TERRESTRE AEROPUERTO is a terrific Airport Taxi shuttle service which utilizes multi-passenger shared vans with service not only to the center of town, but to other areas as well. The cost from the airport to your hotel in the city center is $44 pesos (approximately $4.00 US per person depending on the current exchange rate) Return service can be arranged at their office facing the Cathedral at Alameda de Leon #1-G. Phone number: (951) 514 4350
Other Transportation Options:
Local Taxi Service: Our favorite taxi service is SITIO CONSTITUCION at (951) 514 1651 which is efficient with reasonable rates. They will give you the taxi car number for identification and quote the rate if you ask for it when requesting the pick-up. In general, taxis within the city center cost a flat $30 pesos and those outside the city center $40 pesos and above. ALWAYS CONFIRM THE TAXI RATE FOR YOUR DESTINATION WITH THE DRIVER BEFORE YOU ARE UNDERWAY. THIS APPLIES WHETHER YOU ORDER THE TAXI BY PHONE OR PICK ONE UP ON THE CITY STREETS!
Collective Taxis (“Collectivos”): Communal collective taxis are found around the Central de Abastos Market on the edge of the city. Each taxi squeezes in five (5) passengers going to the same destination outside of the city area for a rate of $15 pesos per person. This is a very economical way to visit the out-lying towns even if the passenger may feel like a sardine with his fellow passengers. Each taxi has the name of its destination on its windshield and they are congregated with other taxis based on their common destination. Just ask anyone on the street and they can point you in the right direction!
City Buses (Urbanos): Oaxaca City has an extensive public bus system with many competing companies covering the same routes and areas. Each bus has the name of the principal destination and some smaller in route stops on their front window. All city buses charge $4 ½ pesos per passenger. When learning your way around, I strongly advise you to confirm your destination with the driver BEFORE YOU PAY HIM AND SIT DOWN.
Otherwise you may have an unexpected “scenic” excursion that you may not have bargained for! Rest assured that you cannot get too lost in Oaxaca City and that you are only a “safe taxi ride away” to your actual destination if things get too frustrating. If you have the time and inclination, it can be quite interesting to get-lost-on-purpose. Often the most surprising, memorable, and enjoyable experiences happen when not planned so just go for it!
Second Class Buses: Also known as “Chicken Buses” because of the live poultry that may be going home with your fellow passengers. These buses can be very colorful with locals and more often than not, crowded, hot, and noisy. But they often provide an experience which you will remember for a long time. The second class buses are found in the Second Class Bus Terminal next to the Central de Abastos Market. This can be a very busy and confusing place, but from here you can join the locals going to the outlying towns and pueblos. They are cheap and depart frequently. Just mention your destination, look confused and lost (not difficult to do) and someone will help you out!
First Class Buses: The Bus is the king of the Oaxaca road. Bus lines connect virtually every town and most villages in Oaxaca as well as most of Mexico. First Class and Luxury (Lujo) Class buses are located at the ADO Bus Terminal on the northern edge of the City. The service offered here is a world away from that of the Second Class buses. Direct bus services to the Pacific Coast of Oaxaca (Huatulco, Puerto Angel, Puerto Escondido), to Mexico City, Puebla, Vera Cruz, San Cristobal de las Casas, etc., etc. depart from here.
The best way to book and pay for a bus ticket is through the on-line service called: WWW.TICKETBUS.COM.MX This service also has two local Oaxaca City offices. This on-line site is great because you can check destinations, departure information, length of trip, and price. In addition you can reserve and pay for your tickets without having to go to the bus station or one of the local branches. This is an amazing service that handles all first class bus lines for the southern part of Mexico beginning at Mexico City. I am hoping they extend their service to the northern part of Mexico in the future. Check it out!
EAT AS THE LOCALS DO!
COMIDA CORRIDA (FIXED MID-DAY LUNCH MENU): Oaxaca has amazing food and it is known as one of the most important culinary centers of Mexico. The variety of food and the variety of places to enjoy Oaxacan food is one of the outstanding features of this remarkable city. The most traditional meal of the day is the afternoon “comida” which is also the main meal of the day. It is usually served between two and four o’clock. Many restaurants, including small family operated restaurants, offer a fixed menu comida corrida which includes an entrada (soap, salad, or rice/pasta dish), the main plate (a piece of meat prepared with vegetables, rice, or beans), tortillas, the desert of the day (flan custard, fresh fruit, or other sweet), and an aqua fresca (freshly made fresh fruit drink). The price of the comida corrida is fixed, but generally runs between $35 and $50 pesos. Comida corridas are a wonderful way to sample Oaxacan home-style food which is filling and also very economical.
Some of the recommended restaurants and small family operated cafes offering comida corridas are
La Casa del Tio Guero, Garcia Vigil 715
El Buen Gourmet, Ave. Independencia between Pino Suarez and Juarez
Casa Isabel, Calle Cosijoeza between Pino Suarez and Caliz de la Republica
Las Quince Letras, Abasolo 300
La Coronita, Diaz Ordaz 208 (in Hotel Valle de Oaxaca)
20 de Noviembre Market two blocks south of the zocolo (collection of indoor food stalls)
EATS ON THE STREET
Like many visitors, we were concerned about eating the way thousands of Oaxaquenos do – by eating a crisp tlayuda or a savory memela off the comal at one of Oaxaca’s many street stands. Following the sound advice of local friends, we’ve learned to select street stands that produce food that is safe to eat. We advise you look for a stands that draw larger numbers of people, are staffed by more than one person, and where the person handling the money is not the same as the person doing the cooking (or, if it is the same person, to make sure that she always uses a plastic glove when handling money). We recommend the following street stands for delicious and cheap snacks:
*The stand on J. P. Garcia three block south of the zocolo along the west side of the Artesan’s Market for great breakfast treats
*The stand alongside of the Templo San Agustin, on Guerrero near the corner of Fiallo.
*The stand alongside of Carmen Alto Church on Garcia Vigil (across from the Casa de Benito Juarez Museum)
*The trailer at the southeast corner of Jardin Conzatti (Reforma and Gomez Farias) for great tortas (sandwiches)
*The outdoor organic market held on Fridays and Saturdays at El Pochote, behind the arches of what used to be Oaxaca’s aqueduct (up Garcia Vigil to Rufino Tamayo)
COFFEE FIXES
A favorite pastime for many visitors is searching out the best places to drink coffee or buy coffee beans. The state of Oaxaca grows excellent quality coffee and most of the coffee shops offer some coffee that is locally grown. Here are some of the favorite places to enjoy a cup of café:
*Nuevo Mundo at M. Bravo 206
*Café Gecko at Cinco de Mayo 412
*Coffee Beans at Cinco de Mayo 400
*Café La Antigua at Reforma 401
*Pan & Co on Garcia Vigil (great pastry)
*The Italian Coffee Company, M. Alcala facing Santo Domingo Church and Hidalgo 817 off the zocolo
*The organic market at El Pochote, Friday and Saturdays, for organic ground and beans (see “Eats on Street” above for location
FREE LOCAL INFORMATION, RECOMMENDATIONS, AND CHEAP USED BOOKS!
The Oaxaca Lending Library located at Pino Suarez 519 (one block south of Parque Juarez aka Parque Llano) is a great source of friendly advice, information on current events, recommendations on local businesses, rentals, etc., etc. and cheap used books for sale. The Library is staffed by local volunteers and is the unofficial hub of the local expatriate community. The Library has many worthwhile projects benefiting the local communities of Oaxaca and donations are always appreciated. It is a friendly and casual place where you can drop in, have a cup of coffee and a bagel, say hello, and visit with local members. Hours are Monday through Friday 10-2 and 4-7, Saturday 10-1, closed Sunday. Check out their site at: www.oaxlibrary.com
I hope these Helpful Hints will facilitate your visit to Oaxaca! Please do not hesitate to contact me if you have any questions or comments. Hasta pronto, Laura
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